Re: help!

Hi there
Do you have it in :"wye" (Y) configuration?
Not sure if "star" means same thing.
Experiment with run caps to keep draw low...it should not get hot so something is wrong.
Kone

Hi everyone, I'm new to the group and first of all I wanted to thank  
everyone for their kindness. I have a problem with a rotoverter. The  
motor is a three-phase 5,5horse, 50 hertz (I am in Italy), 4 windings.  
690v star connection. 1440rpm per minute (the engine can even go up to  
60 hertz with 830V and 1730 revolutions is shown on the plate) Now I  
am testing it with the 220v 50herz rotoverter system, but I saw that  
it has little force and the rotor (cage) squirrel) warms up a lot  
..... how come? ... I bought a variac to bring the voltage to 1/4 (172  
volts) and I'm waiting for it to arrive, but is that just the problem  
or else? ...... Thank you so much for helping me out.

InfoWelcome to our group!Your RV  should not run hot, if experience with my 3 hp 480 volt Chinese WEG 1800 rpm 60hz is any indication. It stays cold.I made a very good capacitor switching box, right from the beginning of my experiments with the RV.I took a plastic water proof tool box, and mounted all my oil filled 600 volt capacitors In it.The hinged lid was drilled to mount toggle switches in two rows, with labels for the mf value of the capacitor each switch controls.I found it difficult to get 1 mf oil filled capacitors, but was able to get 2 mg, 3, and 6 values.With a bank of these, along with some 20 mg, plus the 140 mg starting cap, which is on a momentary contact switch, only used to start the motor, to get it up to speed.Using, for instance, 15 mf as a rough guess for keeping it running after you reach your (1800) rpm (in my 60 hz case) you can start watching your amperage draw, and switch off some low value capacitors, seeing the load drop to as far down as it can runIn my case, it runs full speed with sealed greased bearings, but with the fan removed, at 400 ma.An identical motor with the seals and grease removed that I have runs at 200ma.Both are tested with 120 volts 60 hz line voltage.Using a Variac, I have run them full speed at 72 volts but no great torque.I would not bother destroying the grease and seals, as longevity in a dusty environment, or quiet reliability is nice once you use for a practical use, you may find, after your initual discoveries thrill wears off.I don't use the shaft torque so much, though I guess I can, as a shop rotary wire brush, or buffer.The best thing is using the capacitor circuit in series, with a primary transformer load.One must have a switch, to shunt off the primary until your motor is up to full speed, using the momentary start capacitor.Then you open the shunt once you no longer use your start cap. and everything has been settled down with your running caps.Of course once your load comes on you will play your switches like a piano, at first, until you learn the happy values that are needed.I hope this helpsCheers Warren

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Tue., 25 Jun. 2019 at 3:27 a.m., [email protected] [EVGRAY]<[email protected]> wrote:       

Hi everyone, I'm new to the group and first of all I wanted to thank 
everyone for their kindness. I have a problem with a rotoverter. The 
motor is a three-phase 5,5horse, 50 hertz (I am in Italy), 4 windings. 
690v star connection. 1440rpm per minute (the engine can even go up to 
60 hertz with 830V and 1730 revolutions is shown on the plate) Now I 
am testing it with the 220v 50herz rotoverter system, but I saw that 
it has little force and the rotor (cage) squirrel) warms up a lot 
...... how come? ... I bought a variac to bring the voltage to 1/4 (172 
volts) and I'm waiting for it to arrive, but is that just the problem 
or else? ...... Thank you so much for helping me out.


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Kone, I think star is the same as Wye, with the voltage he has it will
not naturally go into resonance it's probably just beyond it, once he
drops the voltage that should do it if he has enough caps to really get
it tuned properly it should run cool.  I run experiments here all the
time where a little too much voltage drops the energy of wireless
transmission.

Have you tried using these 3 nansec switching diodes for anything? they
are fucking awesome! 1n4148

On 6/25/2019 1:46 AM, [email protected] [EVGRAY] wrote:
>  
>
> Hi there
> Do you have it in :"wye" (Y) configuration?
> Not sure if "star" means same thing.
> Experiment with run caps to keep draw low...it should not get hot so
> something is wrong.
> Kone
>
>

My cell phone auto corrects and the mg is supposed  to be not micrograms, but
 MICROFARADS!It kicks, and screams, having a hissy fit, when I deviate from the Samsung vocabulary spelling, and even sneak in the changes after I hit "send."I think I might prefer my clumsy typos, and key punch errors, instead.I notice others have similar issues with their devices.Cheers Warren
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Tue., 25 Jun. 2019 at 5:43 a.m., Warren Keillor [email protected] [EVGRAY]<[email protected]> wrote:       
Info
Welcome to our group!Your RV  should not run hot, if experience with my 3 hp 480 volt Chinese WEG 1800 rpm 60hz is any indication. It stays cold.I made a very good capacitor switching box, right from the beginning of my experiments with the RV.I took a plastic water proof tool box, and mounted all my oil filled 600 volt capacitors In it.The hinged lid was drilled to mount toggle switches in two rows, with labels for the mf value of the capacitor each switch controls.I found it difficult to get 1 mf oil filled capacitors, but was able to get 2 mg, 3, and 6 values.With a bank of these, along with some 20 mg, plus the 140 mg starting cap, which is on a momentary contact switch, only used to start the motor, to get it up to speed.Using, for instance, 15 mf as a rough guess for keeping it running after you reach your (1800) rpm (in my 60 hz case) you can start watching your amperage draw, and switch off some low value capacitors, seeing the load drop to as far down as it can runIn my case, it runs full speed with sealed greased bearings, but with the fan removed, at 400 ma.An identical motor with the seals and grease removed that I have runs at 200ma.Both are tested with 120 volts 60 hz line voltage.Using a Variac, I have run them full speed at 72 volts but no great torque.I would not bother destroying the grease and seals, as longevity in a dusty environment, or quiet reliability is nice once you use for a practical use, you may find, after your initual discoveries thrill wears off.I don't use the shaft torque so much, though I guess I can, as a shop rotary wire brush, or buffer.The best thing is using the capacitor circuit in series, with a primary transformer load.One must have a switch, to shunt off the primary until your motor is up to full speed, using the momentary start capacitor.Then you open the shunt once you no longer use your start cap. and everything has been settled down with your running caps.Of course once your load comes on you will play your switches like a piano, at first, until you learn the happy values that are needed.I hope this helpsCheers Warren

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Tue., 25 Jun. 2019 at 3:27 a.m., [email protected] [EVGRAY]<[email protected]> wrote:       

Hi everyone, I'm new to the group and first of all I wanted to thank 
everyone for their kindness. I have a problem with a rotoverter. The 
motor is a three-phase 5,5horse, 50 hertz (I am in Italy), 4 windings. 
690v star connection. 1440rpm per minute (the engine can even go up to 
60 hertz with 830V and 1730 revolutions is shown on the plate) Now I 
am testing it with the 220v 50herz rotoverter system, but I saw that 
it has little force and the rotor (cage) squirrel) warms up a lot 
....... how come? ... I bought a variac to bring the voltage to 1/4 (172 
volts) and I'm waiting for it to arrive, but is that just the problem 
or else? ...... Thank you so much for helping me out.


    
  #yiv4505224338 #yiv4505224338 -- #yiv4505224338ygrp-mkp {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;}#yiv4505224338 #yiv4505224338ygrp-mkp hr {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;}#yiv4505224338 #yiv4505224338ygrp-mkp #yiv4505224338hd {color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;}#yiv4505224338 #yiv4505224338ygrp-mkp #yiv4505224338ads {margin-bottom:10px;}#yiv4505224338 #yiv4505224338ygrp-mkp .yiv4505224338ad {padding:0 0;}#yiv4505224338 #yiv4505224338ygrp-mkp .yiv4505224338ad p {margin:0;}#yiv4505224338 #yiv4505224338ygrp-mkp .yiv4505224338ad a {color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;}#yiv4505224338 #yiv4505224338ygrp-sponsor #yiv4505224338ygrp-lc {font-family:Arial;}#yiv4505224338 #yiv4505224338ygrp-sponsor #yiv4505224338ygrp-lc #yiv4505224338hd {margin:10px 0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;}#yiv4505224338 #yiv4505224338ygrp-sponsor #yiv4505224338ygrp-lc .yiv4505224338ad {margin-bottom:10px;padding:0 0;}#yiv4505224338 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Hi  Warren,

The SI prefix m is milli meaning 10^-3. For micro (10^-6) use μ (mu) or u.
SI prefixes: https://wiki2.org/en/Metric_prefix#List_of_SI_prefixes https://wiki2.org/en/Metric_prefix#List_of_SI_prefixes

Regards
Ole
 

---In [email protected], <schoonersolsticemoon@...> wrote :

 My cell phone auto corrects and the mg is supposed  to be not micrograms, but
 MICROFARADS! It kicks, and screams, having a hissy fit, when I deviate from the Samsung vocabulary spelling, and even sneak in the changes after I hit "send."
 I think I might prefer my clumsy typos, and key punch errors, instead.
 I notice others have similar issues with their devices.
 Cheers Warren
 Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature
 
 On Tue., 25 Jun. 2019 at 5:43 a.m., Warren Keillor schoonersolsticemoon@... [EVGRAY]
 <[email protected]> wrote:

   Info
 Welcome to our group!
 Your RV  should not run hot, if experience with my 3 hp 480 volt Chinese WEG 1800 rpm 60hz is any indication. It stays cold.
 I made a very good capacitor switching box, right from the beginning of my experiments with the RV.
 I took a plastic water proof tool box, and mounted all my oil filled 600 volt capacitors In it.
 The hinged lid was drilled to mount toggle switches in two rows, with labels for the mf value of the capacitor each switch controls.
 I found it difficult to get 1 mf oil filled capacitors, but was able to get 2 mg, 3, and 6 values.
 With a bank of these, along with some 20 mg, plus the 140 mg starting cap, which is on a momentary contact switch, only used to start the motor, to get it up to speed.
 Using, for instance, 15 mf as a rough guess for keeping it running after you reach your (1800) rpm (in my 60 hz case) you can start watching your amperage draw, and switch off some low value capacitors, seeing the load drop to as far down as it can run
 In my case, it runs full speed with sealed greased bearings, but with the fan removed, at 400 ma.
 An identical motor with the seals and grease removed that I have runs at 200ma.
 Both are tested with 120 volts 60 hz line voltage.
 Using a Variac, I have run them full speed at 72 volts but no great torque.
 I would not bother destroying the grease and seals, as longevity in a dusty environment, or quiet reliability is nice once you use for a practical use, you may find, after your initual discoveries thrill wears off.
 I don't use the shaft torque so much, though I guess I can, as a shop rotary wire brush, or buffer.
 The best thing is using the capacitor circuit in series, with a primary transformer load.
 One must have a switch, to shunt off the primary until your motor is up to full speed, using the momentary start capacitor.
 Then you open the shunt once you no longer use your start cap. and everything has been settled down with your running caps.
 Of course once your load comes on you will play your switches like a piano, at first, until you learn the happy values that are needed.
 I hope this helps
 Cheers Warren

 Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature
 
 On Tue., 25 Jun. 2019 at 3:27 a.m., info@... [EVGRAY]
 <[email protected]> wrote:

   
 Hi everyone, I'm new to the group and first of all I wanted to thank 
 everyone for their kindness. I have a problem with a rotoverter. The 
 motor is a three-phase 5,5horse, 50 hertz (I am in Italy), 4 windings. 
 690v star connection. 1440rpm per minute (the engine can even go up to 
 60 hertz with 830V and 1730 revolutions is shown on the plate) Now I 
 am testing it with the 220v 50herz rotoverter system, but I saw that 
 it has little force and the rotor (cage) squirrel) warms up a lot 
 ....... how come? ... I bought a variac to bring the voltage to 1/4 (172 
 volts) and I'm waiting for it to arrive, but is that just the problem 
 or else? ...... Thank you so much for helping me out.

Hi Guy from Italy working on rotovertor
 If the voltage is too high, one thing you can do is put an incandescent light bulb  (or two) in series to the motor feed as you wait for your variac.
 Also look at your windings, and see if they are two or tjree or maybe four paralleled wires to them instead of one thick wire for each phase....usually the "energy saving" 3ph AC induction motors will be like this,,,if so, you can rewire and solder the wiring to have the wires in series, not paralleled, and now the motor will have very high impedance, and might work well with your 600VAC feed like this.
 Also you can play with having the run cap phase of different impedance than the two other phases that receive the AC juice.....make sure to use old- style  oil filled AC type (not DC)  caps of high voltage too for the run cap phase.
 Kone

Possible squirrel cage warmup:  ( overloading-mechanical ) 

Wrong wiring , shorted winding , seized bearings , frozen grease .

RV is more efficient at specific loading and power source & speed  ( capacitor must match load for unity power factor ) at best load . 

and that depends totally on motor capability & specifications ( your motor is supposed to work OK in 220V 50cps ac but will have to be de-rated in its hp capability ! 

(H)

---In [email protected], <info@...> wrote :

 Hi everyone, I'm new to the group and first of all I wanted to thank 
 everyone for their kindness. I have a problem with a rotoverter. The 
 motor is a three-phase 5,5horse, 50 hertz (I am in Italy), 4 windings. 
 690v star connection. 1440rpm per minute (the engine can even go up to 
 60 hertz with 830V and 1730 revolutions is shown on the plate) Now I 
 am testing it with the 220v 50herz rotoverter system, but I saw that 
 it has little force and the rotor (cage) squirrel) warms up a lot 
 ..... how come? ... I bought a variac to bring the voltage to 1/4 (172 
 volts) and I'm waiting for it to arrive, but is that just the problem 
 or else? ...... Thank you so much for helping me out.

Hi, I wanted to thank all the guys who answered me to try to help me  
solve problems with a rotoverter. The variac has arrived, but even if  
placed at 1/4 of the current foreseen in connection to Y, the thing  
does not change, the rotor turning without load heats up, the current  
consumption is low, about 0.5 amp. which increases if the capacitor  
microfarads increase, and the power is low .... the only doubt I have  
left is the capacitors ... they are the normal ones for AC that they  
sell in electronics stores, and not the old ones in oil bath ...  
that's the problem ...? Has anyone ever done the same?












[email protected] ha scritto:

> Hi everyone, I'm new to the group and first of all I wanted to thank  
> everyone for their kindness. I have a problem with a rotoverter. The  
> motor is a three-phase 5,5horse, 50 hertz (I am in Italy), 4  
> windings. 690v star connection. 1440rpm per minute (the engine can  
> even go up to 60 hertz with 830V and 1730 revolutions is shown on  
> the plate) Now I am testing it with the 220v 50herz rotoverter  
> system, but I saw that it has little force and the rotor (cage)  
> squirrel) warms up a lot ..... how come? ... I bought a variac to  
> bring the voltage to 1/4 (172 volts) and I'm waiting for it to  
> arrive, but is that just the problem or else? ...... Thank you so  
> much for helping me out.

Hi InfoSomething is wrong.My WEG, once up to speed, will run
even without capacitors in the circuit.I never ran it long like that, because I was always trying to get the current draw as low as possible.Now , I had better dig one of my Roroverters out of storage, and test that to see if if might, in that condition,  heat up.I use a 140, or 120 uf motor start capacitor to get my motors turning at full 60 hz speed, before I begin my play with them, using my capacitor tuning boxes.As I said, I had difficulty finding oil filled high voltage, low value uf capacitors, which are what I have been using. I have not tried other types, as I scored a whole bin of these oil filled kind, in an old electronics surplus store in downtown Toronto, ( which has since moved to some suburban industrial area miles out of downtown) The oil filled, are not common, but are not perhaps the only kind that work. They are only my experience, as I was new to Roto Verters, and trying to get my first one going, just to test this voodoo crazy thing Hector, and Doug,  were doing.My emotions were high when the big lump of cast iron motor ran full speed, just as they said it would.I found myself running this mass on a tiny speaker wire of 26 gauge, just to prove to myself, I was not hallucinating- and my amp meters were mis-reading the draw of 200ma. at 110 volts 60hz AC.Once the magic full speed rotation happens with that 140uf cap, it was taken out of the start circuit, and the motors keep running, whether with grease, and seals or not.The one with seals, and grease uses 400ma of current, while removing the seals the other motor uses 200 ma.Both motors were brand new,, when I got them as surplus movie props from Del Toro's "Pacific Rim"It was cheaper to buy these real ones from China, than to have me make fake ones out of foam plastic, for a giant industrial scene in the movie. After the movie, I bought a pallet of these motors at the props sale. No one else wanted them as they were 480 volt three phase, and no one has that voltage in their homes and ordinary workshops here in Canada. They are in the realm of heavy industries only, outside the core of major cities, in industrial zones, with their special electrical sub stations pulling power from the main transmission grid. People buying at  film prop sales don't buy for such heavy industries, or is it usual for film companies to buy the real thing new. I was just lucky to be working on this giant 200 million dollar budget film, with a director who likes the real stuff when possible.They bought containers of stuff from China, for scenes in the film.It was less trouble than shooting in China.That's the only reason I got my curious little hands on new motors, that never had to do anything except look pretty, as part of some giant robot.I don't spend a lot of money on my experiments. Hundreds have ended in failures, or miserable complicated contraptions that barely show any promise of running themselves.Hector, in spite of his flamboyant language sometimes, redeemed himself with this device, his Rotoverter. It works magic.At least, in my tests,1.614 times over unity. (Hector claims 1.618. I have more to improve)You are having a problem with yours, I have never experiencedAsk others in this group. Doug is reliable, and has a lot more experience, than I have, with this device.Cheers Warren
ent from Yahoo Mail on Android
 
 
  On Thu., 27 Jun. 2019 at 2:41 a.m., [email protected] [EVGRAY]<[email protected]> wrote:       

Hi, I wanted to thank all the guys who answered me to try to help me 
solve problems with a rotoverter. The variac has arrived, but even if 
placed at 1/4 of the current foreseen in connection to Y, the thing 
does not change, the rotor turning without load heats up, the current 
consumption is low, about 0.5 amp. which increases if the capacitor 
microfarads increase, and the power is low .... the only doubt I have 
left is the capacitors ... they are the normal ones for AC that they 
sell in electronics stores, and not the old ones in oil bath ... 
that's the problem ...? Has anyone ever done the same?

[email protected] ha scritto:

> Hi everyone, I'm new to the group and first of all I wanted to thank 
> everyone for their kindness. I have a problem with a rotoverter. The 
> motor is a three-phase 5,5horse, 50 hertz (I am in Italy), 4 
> windings. 690v star connection. 1440rpm per minute (the engine can 
> even go up to 60 hertz with 830V and 1730 revolutions is shown on 
> the plate) Now I am testing it with the 220v 50herz rotoverter 
> system, but I saw that it has little force and the rotor (cage) 
> squirrel) warms up a lot ..... how come? ... I bought a variac to 
> bring the voltage to 1/4 (172 volts) and I'm waiting for it to 
> arrive, but is that just the problem or else? ...... Thank you so 
> much for helping me out.


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Send some pics of your set up .i t may help .

On Thursday, June 27, 2019, Warren Keillor [email protected]
[EVGRAY] <[email protected]> wrote:

>
>
> Hi Info
> Something is wrong.
> My WEG, once up to speed, will run
> even without capacitors in the circuit.
> I never ran it long like that, because I was always trying to get the
> current draw as low as possible.
> Now , I had better dig one of my Roroverters out of storage, and test that
> to see if if might, in that condition,  heat up.
> I use a 140, or 120 uf motor start capacitor to get my motors turning at
> full 60 hz speed, before I begin my play with them, using my capacitor
> tuning boxes.
> As I said, I had difficulty finding oil filled high voltage, low value uf
> capacitors, which are what I have been using. I have not tried other types,
> as I scored a whole bin of these oil filled kind, in an old electronics
> surplus store in downtown Toronto, ( which has since moved to some suburban
> industrial area miles out of downtown) The oil filled, are not common, but
> are not perhaps the only kind that work. They are only my experience, as I
> was new to Roto Verters, and trying to get my first one going, just to test
> this voodoo crazy thing Hector, and Doug,  were doing.
> My emotions were high when the big lump of cast iron motor ran full speed,
> just as they said it would.
> I found myself running this mass on a tiny speaker wire of 26 gauge, just
> to prove to myself, I was not hallucinating- and my amp meters were
> mis-reading the draw of 200ma. at 110 volts 60hz AC.
> Once the magic full speed rotation happens with that 140uf cap, it was
> taken out of the start circuit, and the motors keep running, whether with
> grease, and seals or not.
> The one with seals, and grease uses 400ma of current, while removing the
> seals the other motor uses 200 ma.
> Both motors were brand new,, when I got them as surplus movie props from
> Del Toro's "Pacific Rim"
> It was cheaper to buy these real ones from China, than to have me make
> fake ones out of foam plastic, for a giant industrial scene in the movie.
> After the movie, I bought a pallet of these motors at the props sale. No
> one else wanted them as they were 480 volt three phase, and no one has that
> voltage in their homes and ordinary workshops here in Canada. They are in
> the realm of heavy industries only, outside the core of major cities, in
> industrial zones, with their special electrical sub stations pulling power
> from the main transmission grid. People buying at  film prop sales don't
> buy for such heavy industries, or is it usual for film companies to buy the
> real thing new. I was just lucky to be working on this giant 200 million
> dollar budget film, with a director who likes the real stuff when possible.
> They bought containers of stuff from China, for scenes in the film.
> It was less trouble than shooting in China.
> That's the only reason I got my curious little hands on new motors, that
> never had to do anything except look pretty, as part of some giant robot.
> I don't spend a lot of money on my experiments. Hundreds have ended in
> failures, or miserable complicated contraptions that barely show any
> promise of running themselves.
> Hector, in spite of his flamboyant language sometimes, redeemed himself
> with this device, his Rotoverter. It works magic.
> At least, in my tests,1.614 times over unity. (Hector claims 1.618. I have
> more to improve)
> You are having a problem with yours, I have never experienced
> Ask others in this group. Doug is reliable, and has a lot more experience,
> than I have, with this device.
> Cheers Warren
>
> ent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
>
> On Thu., 27 Jun. 2019 at 2:41 a.m., [email protected] [EVGRAY]
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> Hi, I wanted to thank all the guys who answered me to try to help me
> solve problems with a rotoverter. The variac has arrived, but even if
> placed at 1/4 of the current foreseen in connection to Y, the thing
> does not change, the rotor turning without load heats up, the current
> consumption is low, about 0.5 amp. which increases if the capacitor
> microfarads increase, and the power is low .... the only doubt I have
> left is the capacitors ... they are the normal ones for AC that they
> sell in electronics stores, and not the old ones in oil bath ...
> that's the problem ...? Has anyone ever done the same?
>
> [email protected] ha scritto:
>
> > Hi everyone, I'm new to the group and first of all I wanted to thank
> > everyone for their kindness. I have a problem with a rotoverter. The
> > motor is a three-phase 5,5horse, 50 hertz (I am in Italy), 4
> > windings. 690v star connection. 1440rpm per minute (the engine can
> > even go up to 60 hertz with 830V and 1730 revolutions is shown on
> > the plate) Now I am testing it with the 220v 50herz rotoverter
> > system, but I saw that it has little force and the rotor (cage)
> > squirrel) warms up a lot ..... how come? ... I bought a variac to
> > bring the voltage to 1/4 (172 volts) and I'm waiting for it to
> > arrive, but is that just the problem or else? ...... Thank you so
> > much for helping me out.
>
> 
>

Thanks Warren for the availability, ... I hope that Doug can help me,  
the problem is that the engine runs at full speed, even with only 2  
phases once it starts, without capacitors, and without load it absorbs  
very little, 0.2 AMP, however, turning the rotor very warm (not the  
stator with the windings), and does not have the strength that a 5.5  
horsepower should have.





"James Glinski [email protected] [EVGRAY]" <[email protected]>  
ha scritto:

> Send some pics of your set up .i t may help .
>
> On Thursday, June 27, 2019, Warren Keillor [email protected]
> [EVGRAY] <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Hi Info
>> Something is wrong.
>> My WEG, once up to speed, will run
>> even without capacitors in the circuit.
>> I never ran it long like that, because I was always trying to get the
>> current draw as low as possible.
>> Now , I had better dig one of my Roroverters out of storage, and test that
>> to see if if might, in that condition,  heat up.
>> I use a 140, or 120 uf motor start capacitor to get my motors turning at
>> full 60 hz speed, before I begin my play with them, using my capacitor
>> tuning boxes.
>> As I said, I had difficulty finding oil filled high voltage, low value uf
>> capacitors, which are what I have been using. I have not tried other types,
>> as I scored a whole bin of these oil filled kind, in an old electronics
>> surplus store in downtown Toronto, ( which has since moved to some suburban
>> industrial area miles out of downtown) The oil filled, are not common, but
>> are not perhaps the only kind that work. They are only my experience, as I
>> was new to Roto Verters, and trying to get my first one going, just to test
>> this voodoo crazy thing Hector, and Doug,  were doing.
>> My emotions were high when the big lump of cast iron motor ran full speed,
>> just as they said it would.
>> I found myself running this mass on a tiny speaker wire of 26 gauge, just
>> to prove to myself, I was not hallucinating- and my amp meters were
>> mis-reading the draw of 200ma. at 110 volts 60hz AC.
>> Once the magic full speed rotation happens with that 140uf cap, it was
>> taken out of the start circuit, and the motors keep running, whether with
>> grease, and seals or not.
>> The one with seals, and grease uses 400ma of current, while removing the
>> seals the other motor uses 200 ma.
>> Both motors were brand new,, when I got them as surplus movie props from
>> Del Toro's "Pacific Rim"
>> It was cheaper to buy these real ones from China, than to have me make
>> fake ones out of foam plastic, for a giant industrial scene in the movie.
>> After the movie, I bought a pallet of these motors at the props sale. No
>> one else wanted them as they were 480 volt three phase, and no one has that
>> voltage in their homes and ordinary workshops here in Canada. They are in
>> the realm of heavy industries only, outside the core of major cities, in
>> industrial zones, with their special electrical sub stations pulling power
>> from the main transmission grid. People buying at  film prop sales don't
>> buy for such heavy industries, or is it usual for film companies to buy the
>> real thing new. I was just lucky to be working on this giant 200 million
>> dollar budget film, with a director who likes the real stuff when possible.
>> They bought containers of stuff from China, for scenes in the film.
>> It was less trouble than shooting in China.
>> That's the only reason I got my curious little hands on new motors, that
>> never had to do anything except look pretty, as part of some giant robot.
>> I don't spend a lot of money on my experiments. Hundreds have ended in
>> failures, or miserable complicated contraptions that barely show any
>> promise of running themselves.
>> Hector, in spite of his flamboyant language sometimes, redeemed himself
>> with this device, his Rotoverter. It works magic.
>> At least, in my tests,1.614 times over unity. (Hector claims 1.618. I have
>> more to improve)
>> You are having a problem with yours, I have never experienced
>> Ask others in this group. Doug is reliable, and has a lot more experience,
>> than I have, with this device.
>> Cheers Warren
>>
>> ent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
>>
>> On Thu., 27 Jun. 2019 at 2:41 a.m., [email protected] [EVGRAY]
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi, I wanted to thank all the guys who answered me to try to help me
>> solve problems with a rotoverter. The variac has arrived, but even if
>> placed at 1/4 of the current foreseen in connection to Y, the thing
>> does not change, the rotor turning without load heats up, the current
>> consumption is low, about 0.5 amp. which increases if the capacitor
>> microfarads increase, and the power is low .... the only doubt I have
>> left is the capacitors ... they are the normal ones for AC that they
>> sell in electronics stores, and not the old ones in oil bath ...
>> that's the problem ...? Has anyone ever done the same?
>>
>> [email protected] ha scritto:
>>
>> > Hi everyone, I'm new to the group and first of all I wanted to thank
>> > everyone for their kindness. I have a problem with a rotoverter. The
>> > motor is a three-phase 5,5horse, 50 hertz (I am in Italy), 4
>> > windings. 690v star connection. 1440rpm per minute (the engine can
>> > even go up to 60 hertz with 830V and 1730 revolutions is shown on
>> > the plate) Now I am testing it with the 220v 50herz rotoverter
>> > system, but I saw that it has little force and the rotor (cage)
>> > squirrel) warms up a lot ..... how come? ... I bought a variac to
>> > bring the voltage to 1/4 (172 volts) and I'm waiting for it to
>> > arrive, but is that just the problem or else? ...... Thank you so
>> > much for helping me out.
>>
>>
>>

Hi @lamaisonpescara

"...and does not have the strength that a 5.5 
 horsepower should have..."
The motor has to be derated when running in rotoverter mode according to Hector. It is probably overloaded if trying to run at nominal power.

Check if the rotor is damaged. Is the insulation between the laminated steel sheets in working order? The current has to run in the squirrel cage and not in the metal sheets.

Regards
Ole
 

---In [email protected], <info@...> wrote :

 Thanks Warren for the availability, ... I hope that Doug can help me, 
 the problem is that the engine runs at full speed, even with only 2 
 phases once it starts, without capacitors, and without load it absorbs 
 very little, 0.2 AMP, however, turning the rotor very warm (not the 
 stator with the windings), and does not have the strength that a 5.5 
 horsepower should have.
 
 
 
 
 
 "James Glinski jglinski01@... mailto:jglinski01@... [EVGRAY]" <[email protected] mailto:[email protected]> 
 ha scritto:
 
 > Send some pics of your set up .i t may help .
 >
 > On Thursday, June 27, 2019, Warren Keillor schoonersolsticemoon@... mailto:schoonersolsticemoon@...
 > [EVGRAY] <[email protected] mailto:[email protected]> wrote:
 >
 >>
 >>
 >> Hi Info
 >> Something is wrong.
 >> My WEG, once up to speed, will run
 >> even without capacitors in the circuit.
 >> I never ran it long like that, because I was always trying to get the
 >> current draw as low as possible.
 >> Now , I had better dig one of my Roroverters out of storage, and test that
 >> to see if if might, in that condition, heat up.
 >> I use a 140, or 120 uf motor start capacitor to get my motors turning at
 >> full 60 hz speed, before I begin my play with them, using my capacitor
 >> tuning boxes.
 >> As I said, I had difficulty finding oil filled high voltage, low value uf
 >> capacitors, which are what I have been using. I have not tried other types,
 >> as I scored a whole bin of these oil filled kind, in an old electronics
 >> surplus store in downtown Toronto, ( which has since moved to some suburban
 >> industrial area miles out of downtown) The oil filled, are not common, but
 >> are not perhaps the only kind that work. They are only my experience, as I
 >> was new to Roto Verters, and trying to get my first one going, just to test
 >> this voodoo crazy thing Hector, and Doug, were doing.
 >> My emotions were high when the big lump of cast iron motor ran full speed,
 >> just as they said it would.
 >> I found myself running this mass on a tiny speaker wire of 26 gauge, just
 >> to prove to myself, I was not hallucinating- and my amp meters were
 >> mis-reading the draw of 200ma. at 110 volts 60hz AC.
 >> Once the magic full speed rotation happens with that 140uf cap, it was
 >> taken out of the start circuit, and the motors keep running, whether with
 >> grease, and seals or not.
 >> The one with seals, and grease uses 400ma of current, while removing the
 >> seals the other motor uses 200 ma.
 >> Both motors were brand new,, when I got them as surplus movie props from
 >> Del Toro's "Pacific Rim"
 >> It was cheaper to buy these real ones from China, than to have me make
 >> fake ones out of foam plastic, for a giant industrial scene in the movie.
 >> After the movie, I bought a pallet of these motors at the props sale. No
 >> one else wanted them as they were 480 volt three phase, and no one has that
 >> voltage in their homes and ordinary workshops here in Canada. They are in
 >> the realm of heavy industries only, outside the core of major cities, in
 >> industrial zones, with their special electrical sub stations pulling power
 >> from the main transmission grid. People buying at film prop sales don't
 >> buy for such heavy industries, or is it usual for film companies to buy the
 >> real thing new. I was just lucky to be working on this giant 200 million
 >> dollar budget film, with a director who likes the real stuff when possible.
 >> They bought containers of stuff from China, for scenes in the film.
 >> It was less trouble than shooting in China.
 >> That's the only reason I got my curious little hands on new motors, that
 >> never had to do anything except look pretty, as part of some giant robot.
 >> I don't spend a lot of money on my experiments. Hundreds have ended in
 >> failures, or miserable complicated contraptions that barely show any
 >> promise of running themselves.
 >> Hector, in spite of his flamboyant language sometimes, redeemed himself
 >> with this device, his Rotoverter. It works magic.
 >> At least, in my tests,1.614 times over unity. (Hector claims 1.618. I have
 >> more to improve)
 >> You are having a problem with yours, I have never experienced
 >> Ask others in this group. Doug is reliable, and has a lot more experience,
 >> than I have, with this device.
 >> Cheers Warren
 >>
 >> ent from Yahoo Mail on Android
 >> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
 >>
 >> On Thu., 27 Jun. 2019 at 2:41 a.m., info@... mailto:info@... [EVGRAY]
 >> <[email protected] mailto:[email protected]> wrote:
 >>
 >>
 >>
 >> Hi, I wanted to thank all the guys who answered me to try to help me
 >> solve problems with a rotoverter. The variac has arrived, but even if
 >> placed at 1/4 of the current foreseen in connection to Y, the thing
 >> does not change, the rotor turning without load heats up, the current
 >> consumption is low, about 0.5 amp. which increases if the capacitor
 >> microfarads increase, and the power is low .... the only doubt I have
 >> left is the capacitors ... they are the normal ones for AC that they
 >> sell in electronics stores, and not the old ones in oil bath ...
 >> that's the problem ...? Has anyone ever done the same?
 >>
 >> info@... mailto:info@... ha scritto:
 >>
 >> > Hi everyone, I'm new to the group and first of all I wanted to thank
 >> > everyone for their kindness. I have a problem with a rotoverter. The
 >> > motor is a three-phase 5,5horse, 50 hertz (I am in Italy), 4
 >> > windings. 690v star connection. 1440rpm per minute (the engine can
 >> > even go up to 60 hertz with 830V and 1730 revolutions is shown on
 >> > the plate) Now I am testing it with the 220v 50herz rotoverter
 >> > system, but I saw that it has little force and the rotor (cage)
 >> > squirrel) warms up a lot ..... how come? ... I bought a variac to
 >> > bring the voltage to 1/4 (172 volts) and I'm waiting for it to
 >> > arrive, but is that just the problem or else? ...... Thank you so
 >> > much for helping me out.
 >>
 >>
 >>

capacitor at specific loading keeping power factor at unity is the key , using low friction bearings can get it to use zero watts in fact correcting power factor loss in the line source  , i got -3 watts
in a 7.5 hp motor shaved to near zero friction , what RV shows is that a true electric to mechanical transformer does not need use power when not loaded. in that i exceeded Tesla design having the line power factor in one (unity ) current and voltage in phase and a virtual rotary RE- radiant 120 degree 
phase angle at 3 phase & over unity out of the box ( this neither explained by anyone else ) except sinichi seike in his ultra relativity book rotary equations .


we had being lied & scammed for over 100 years by the power company's and academic media ! 

many had gotten patents on this concepts but its a fact than from 12 amperes air conditioning consoles and 10 amperes washing machines people are getting now 1.6 amps consoles and 3 amps washing machines   ( and its pure rotoverter  energy saving concept ) in that my mission is totally accomplished, its a pity Lurkers here like Elon Musk Tesla engineers , toyota , Crysler.,GM  and a hundred corporations more do not have the face to fund my research and benefit directly from it RV its only 1% of the trillion dollar potential technology i have in my head ..

Simply (Dont try to milk it out ) it takes at least 5 years to fully understand RV concept basics !

"average"    

Note : Westinghouse must be reincarnated as a female goat within an all male mandingo african refugee camp!

  

(H) 

---In [email protected], <info@...> wrote :

 Thanks Warren for the availability, ... I hope that Doug can help me, 
 the problem is that the engine runs at full speed, even with only 2 
 phases once it starts, without capacitors, and without load it absorbs 
 very little, 0.2 AMP, however, turning the rotor very warm (not the 
 stator with the windings), and does not have the strength that a 5.5 
 horsepower should have.
 
 
 
 
 
 "James Glinski jglinski01@... mailto:jglinski01@... [EVGRAY]" <[email protected] mailto:[email protected]> 
 ha scritto:
 
 > Send some pics of your set up .i t may help .
 >
 > On Thursday, June 27, 2019, Warren Keillor schoonersolsticemoon@... mailto:schoonersolsticemoon@...
 > [EVGRAY] <[email protected] mailto:[email protected]> wrote:
 >
 >>
 >>
 >> Hi Info
 >> Something is wrong.
 >> My WEG, once up to speed, will run
 >> even without capacitors in the circuit.
 >> I never ran it long like that, because I was always trying to get the
 >> current draw as low as possible.
 >> Now , I had better dig one of my Roroverters out of storage, and test that
 >> to see if if might, in that condition, heat up.
 >> I use a 140, or 120 uf motor start capacitor to get my motors turning at
 >> full 60 hz speed, before I begin my play with them, using my capacitor
 >> tuning boxes.
 >> As I said, I had difficulty finding oil filled high voltage, low value uf
 >> capacitors, which are what I have been using. I have not tried other types,
 >> as I scored a whole bin of these oil filled kind, in an old electronics
 >> surplus store in downtown Toronto, ( which has since moved to some suburban
 >> industrial area miles out of downtown) The oil filled, are not common, but
 >> are not perhaps the only kind that work. They are only my experience, as I
 >> was new to Roto Verters, and trying to get my first one going, just to test
 >> this voodoo crazy thing Hector, and Doug, were doing.
 >> My emotions were high when the big lump of cast iron motor ran full speed,
 >> just as they said it would.
 >> I found myself running this mass on a tiny speaker wire of 26 gauge, just
 >> to prove to myself, I was not hallucinating- and my amp meters were
 >> mis-reading the draw of 200ma. at 110 volts 60hz AC.
 >> Once the magic full speed rotation happens with that 140uf cap, it was
 >> taken out of the start circuit, and the motors keep running, whether with
 >> grease, and seals or not.
 >> The one with seals, and grease uses 400ma of current, while removing the
 >> seals the other motor uses 200 ma.
 >> Both motors were brand new,, when I got them as surplus movie props from
 >> Del Toro's "Pacific Rim"
 >> It was cheaper to buy these real ones from China, than to have me make
 >> fake ones out of foam plastic, for a giant industrial scene in the movie.
 >> After the movie, I bought a pallet of these motors at the props sale. No
 >> one else wanted them as they were 480 volt three phase, and no one has that
 >> voltage in their homes and ordinary workshops here in Canada. They are in
 >> the realm of heavy industries only, outside the core of major cities, in
 >> industrial zones, with their special electrical sub stations pulling power
 >> from the main transmission grid. People buying at film prop sales don't
 >> buy for such heavy industries, or is it usual for film companies to buy the
 >> real thing new. I was just lucky to be working on this giant 200 million
 >> dollar budget film, with a director who likes the real stuff when possible.
 >> They bought containers of stuff from China, for scenes in the film.
 >> It was less trouble than shooting in China.
 >> That's the only reason I got my curious little hands on new motors, that
 >> never had to do anything except look pretty, as part of some giant robot.
 >> I don't spend a lot of money on my experiments. Hundreds have ended in
 >> failures, or miserable complicated contraptions that barely show any
 >> promise of running themselves.
 >> Hector, in spite of his flamboyant language sometimes, redeemed himself
 >> with this device, his Rotoverter. It works magic.
 >> At least, in my tests,1.614 times over unity. (Hector claims 1.618. I have
 >> more to improve)
 >> You are having a problem with yours, I have never experienced
 >> Ask others in this group. Doug is reliable, and has a lot more experience,
 >> than I have, with this device.
 >> Cheers Warren
 >>
 >> ent from Yahoo Mail on Android
 >> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
 >>
 >> On Thu., 27 Jun. 2019 at 2:41 a.m., info@... mailto:info@... [EVGRAY]
 >> <[email protected] mailto:[email protected]> wrote:
 >>
 >>
 >>
 >> Hi, I wanted to thank all the guys who answered me to try to help me
 >> solve problems with a rotoverter. The variac has arrived, but even if
 >> placed at 1/4 of the current foreseen in connection to Y, the thing
 >> does not change, the rotor turning without load heats up, the current
 >> consumption is low, about 0.5 amp. which increases if the capacitor
 >> microfarads increase, and the power is low .... the only doubt I have
 >> left is the capacitors ... they are the normal ones for AC that they
 >> sell in electronics stores, and not the old ones in oil bath ...
 >> that's the problem ...? Has anyone ever done the same?
 >>
 >> info@... mailto:info@... ha scritto:
 >>
 >> > Hi everyone, I'm new to the group and first of all I wanted to thank
 >> > everyone for their kindness. I have a problem with a rotoverter. The
 >> > motor is a three-phase 5,5horse, 50 hertz (I am in Italy), 4
 >> > windings. 690v star connection. 1440rpm per minute (the engine can
 >> > even go up to 60 hertz with 830V and 1730 revolutions is shown on
 >> > the plate) Now I am testing it with the 220v 50herz rotoverter
 >> > system, but I saw that it has little force and the rotor (cage)
 >> > squirrel) warms up a lot ..... how come? ... I bought a variac to
 >> > bring the voltage to 1/4 (172 volts) and I'm waiting for it to
 >> > arrive, but is that just the problem or else? ...... Thank you so
 >> > much for helping me out.
 >>
 >>
 >>

InfoHere I am, back again.I have not done it with my RVsI have a 90 lb flywheel from a marine diesel engine, set in good bearings on a 1" shaft (25mm,) in a sturdy steel angle iron frame, able to take any number and size of motors and generators attached with ve belts, and pulleys.I also have a complete inventory of different sizes of pulleys and belts.So far, I have had no joy.I have not given up, it is stored in a distant barn, and needs to be moved closer to where there is heat, light, and electricity.I see a lot of devices of this kind that people have put a lot of time and effort into. They seem to work.I just can't imagine all that for the revenue from some damn you tube video.Does anybody know if frauds get lost of bucks faking you tube energy videos? Then why are they there? Fame?Beats me! A lot of bother for what?Now about RVs from only my experience I put in 1.5 amps of 12 volt DCRun it through an inverterDrive the RV to speed of 1800 rpmThen open the shunt switch on the capacitor tuning circuit that then put a 120 volt to 12 volt transformer in series with the capacitors.I then rectified that AC and then ran a DC load at 2.5 amps DC measured at the brushes.It was an electric trolling motor for a small boat.I also ran a Rene charger off the transformer"s 20 volt multi tap winding, at no measurable amperage load at the battery.One is able to charge at least 10 batterys at once with no extra load on the Rene draw.You only get 1/3 the rated hp from the shaft of an RV as far as I know.Cheers WarrenSent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Fri., 28 Jun. 2019 at 3:29 p.m., [email protected] [EVGRAY]<[email protected]> wrote:       
Guys I'll explain my idea. I'm building a power generator so I can get 
off the national grid, because in Italy they are thieves. The system 
is that of Chas Campbell, a large flywheel of 2 meters in diameter 
(about 7 feet) weighing about 550 pounds that is rotated by this 5.5 
horsepower engine in a rotoverter way, and the wheel will turn a 8kwa 
three-phase alternator (11kw but effective 8kwa). Only I would like to 
connect everything with straps to turn the wheel, and not in a jerked 
way, but continued. Have any of you already tried to do it?

"[email protected] [EVGRAY]" <[email protected]> ha scritto:

> Hi @lamaisonpescara
>
> "...and does not have the strength that a 5.5
> horsepower should have..."
> The motor has to be derated when running in rotoverter mode 
> according to Hector. It is probably overloaded if trying to run at 
> nominal power.
>
> Check if the rotor is damaged. Is the insulation between the 
> laminated steel sheets in working order? The current has to run in 
> the squirrel cage and not in the metal sheets.
>
> Regards
> Ole
>
>
> ---In [email protected], <info@...> wrote :
>
> Thanks Warren for the availability, ... I hope that Doug can help me,
> the problem is that the engine runs at full speed, even with only 2
> phases once it starts, without capacitors, and without load it absorbs
> very little, 0.2 AMP, however, turning the rotor very warm (not the
> stator with the windings), and does not have the strength that a 5.5
> horsepower should have.
>
>
>
>
>
> "James Glinski jglinski01@... mailto:jglinski01@... [EVGRAY]" 
> <[email protected] mailto:[email protected]>
> ha scritto:
>
> > Send some pics of your set up .i t may help .
> >
> > On Thursday, June 27, 2019, Warren Keillor 
> schoonersolsticemoon@... mailto:schoonersolsticemoon@...
> > [EVGRAY] <[email protected] mailto:[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >>
> >>
> >> Hi Info
> >> Something is wrong.
> >> My WEG, once up to speed, will run
> >> even without capacitors in the circuit.
> >> I never ran it long like that, because I was always trying to get the
> >> current draw as low as possible.
> >> Now , I had better dig one of my Roroverters out of storage, and 
> test that
> >> to see if if might, in that condition, heat up.
> >> I use a 140, or 120 uf motor start capacitor to get my motors turning at
> >> full 60 hz speed, before I begin my play with them, using my capacitor
> >> tuning boxes.
> >> As I said, I had difficulty finding oil filled high voltage, low value uf
> >> capacitors, which are what I have been using. I have not tried 
> other types,
> >> as I scored a whole bin of these oil filled kind, in an old electronics
> >> surplus store in downtown Toronto, ( which has since moved to 
> some suburban
> >> industrial area miles out of downtown) The oil filled, are not 
> common, but
> >> are not perhaps the only kind that work. They are only my 
> experience, as I
> >> was new to Roto Verters, and trying to get my first one going, 
> just to test
> >> this voodoo crazy thing Hector, and Doug, were doing.
> >> My emotions were high when the big lump of cast iron motor ran 
> full speed,
> >> just as they said it would.
> >> I found myself running this mass on a tiny speaker wire of 26 gauge, just
> >> to prove to myself, I was not hallucinating- and my amp meters were
> >> mis-reading the draw of 200ma. at 110 volts 60hz AC.
> >> Once the magic full speed rotation happens with that 140uf cap, it was
> >> taken out of the start circuit, and the motors keep running, whether with
> >> grease, and seals or not.
> >> The one with seals, and grease uses 400ma of current, while removing the
> >> seals the other motor uses 200 ma.
> >> Both motors were brand new,, when I got them as surplus movie props from
> >> Del Toro's "Pacific Rim"
> >> It was cheaper to buy these real ones from China, than to have me make
> >> fake ones out of foam plastic, for a giant industrial scene in the movie.
> >> After the movie, I bought a pallet of these motors at the props sale. No
> >> one else wanted them as they were 480 volt three phase, and no 
> one has that
> >> voltage in their homes and ordinary workshops here in Canada. They are in
> >> the realm of heavy industries only, outside the core of major cities, in
> >> industrial zones, with their special electrical sub stations 
> pulling power
> >> from the main transmission grid. People buying at film prop sales don't
> >> buy for such heavy industries, or is it usual for film companies 
> to buy the
> >> real thing new. I was just lucky to be working on this giant 200 million
> >> dollar budget film, with a director who likes the real stuff 
> when possible.
> >> They bought containers of stuff from China, for scenes in the film.
> >> It was less trouble than shooting in China.
> >> That's the only reason I got my curious little hands on new motors, that
> >> never had to do anything except look pretty, as part of some giant robot.
> >> I don't spend a lot of money on my experiments. Hundreds have ended in
> >> failures, or miserable complicated contraptions that barely show any
> >> promise of running themselves.
> >> Hector, in spite of his flamboyant language sometimes, redeemed himself
> >> with this device, his Rotoverter. It works magic.
> >> At least, in my tests,1.614 times over unity. (Hector claims 
> 1.618. I have
> >> more to improve)
> >> You are having a problem with yours, I have never experienced
> >> Ask others in this group. Doug is reliable, and has a lot more 
> experience,
> >> than I have, with this device.
> >> Cheers Warren
> >>
> >> ent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> >> 
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers⁡_wl=ym⁡_sub1=Internal⁡_sub2=Global_YGrowth⁡_sub3=EmailSignature 
> https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers⁡_wl=ym⁡_sub1=Internal⁡_sub2=Global_YGrowth⁡_sub3=EmailSignature>
> >>
> >> On Thu., 27 Jun. 2019 at 2:41 a.m., info@... mailto:info@... [EVGRAY]
> >> <[email protected] mailto:[email protected]> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Hi, I wanted to thank all the guys who answered me to try to help me
> >> solve problems with a rotoverter. The variac has arrived, but even if
> >> placed at 1/4 of the current foreseen in connection to Y, the thing
> >> does not change, the rotor turning without load heats up, the current
> >> consumption is low, about 0.5 amp. which increases if the capacitor
> >> microfarads increase, and the power is low .... the only doubt I have
> >> left is the capacitors ... they are the normal ones for AC that they
> >> sell in electronics stores, and not the old ones in oil bath ...
> >> that's the problem ...? Has anyone ever done the same?
> >>
> >> info@... mailto:info@... ha scritto:
> >>
> >> > Hi everyone, I'm new to the group and first of all I wanted to thank
> >> > everyone for their kindness. I have a problem with a rotoverter. The
> >> > motor is a three-phase 5,5horse, 50 hertz (I am in Italy), 4
> >> > windings. 690v star connection. 1440rpm per minute (the engine can
> >> > even go up to 60 hertz with 830V and 1730 revolutions is shown on
> >> > the plate) Now I am testing it with the 220v 50herz rotoverter
> >> > system, but I saw that it has little force and the rotor (cage)
> >> > squirrel) warms up a lot ..... how come? ... I bought a variac to
> >> > bring the voltage to 1/4 (172 volts) and I'm waiting for it to
> >> > arrive, but is that just the problem or else? ...... Thank you so
> >> > much for helping me out.
> >>
> >>
> >>


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Guys I'll explain my idea. I'm building a power generator so I can get  
off the national grid, because in Italy they are thieves. The system  
is that of Chas Campbell, a large flywheel of 2 meters in diameter  
(about 7 feet) weighing about 550 pounds that is rotated by this 5.5  
horsepower engine in a rotoverter way, and the wheel will turn a 8kwa  
three-phase alternator (11kw but effective 8kwa). Only I would like to  
connect everything with straps to turn the wheel, and not in a jerked  
way, but continued. Have any of you already tried to do it?





"[email protected] [EVGRAY]" <[email protected]> ha scritto:

> Hi @lamaisonpescara
>
> "...and does not have the strength that a 5.5
>  horsepower should have..."
> The motor has to be derated when running in rotoverter mode  
> according to Hector. It is probably overloaded if trying to run at  
> nominal power.
>
> Check if the rotor is damaged. Is the insulation between the  
> laminated steel sheets in working order? The current has to run in  
> the squirrel cage and not in the metal sheets.
>
> Regards
> Ole
>
>
> ---In [email protected], <info@...> wrote :
>
>  Thanks Warren for the availability, ... I hope that Doug can help me,
>  the problem is that the engine runs at full speed, even with only 2
>  phases once it starts, without capacitors, and without load it absorbs
>  very little, 0.2 AMP, however, turning the rotor very warm (not the
>  stator with the windings), and does not have the strength that a 5.5
>  horsepower should have.
>
>
>
>
>
>  "James Glinski jglinski01@... mailto:jglinski01@... [EVGRAY]"  
> <[email protected] mailto:[email protected]>
>  ha scritto:
>
>  > Send some pics of your set up .i t may help .
>  >
>  > On Thursday, June 27, 2019, Warren Keillor  
> schoonersolsticemoon@... mailto:schoonersolsticemoon@...
>  > [EVGRAY] <[email protected] mailto:[email protected]> wrote:
>  >
>  >>
>  >>
>  >> Hi Info
>  >> Something is wrong.
>  >> My WEG, once up to speed, will run
>  >> even without capacitors in the circuit.
>  >> I never ran it long like that, because I was always trying to get the
>  >> current draw as low as possible.
>  >> Now , I had better dig one of my Roroverters out of storage, and  
> test that
>  >> to see if if might, in that condition, heat up.
>  >> I use a 140, or 120 uf motor start capacitor to get my motors turning at
>  >> full 60 hz speed, before I begin my play with them, using my capacitor
>  >> tuning boxes.
>  >> As I said, I had difficulty finding oil filled high voltage, low value uf
>  >> capacitors, which are what I have been using. I have not tried  
> other types,
>  >> as I scored a whole bin of these oil filled kind, in an old electronics
>  >> surplus store in downtown Toronto, ( which has since moved to  
> some suburban
>  >> industrial area miles out of downtown) The oil filled, are not  
> common, but
>  >> are not perhaps the only kind that work. They are only my  
> experience, as I
>  >> was new to Roto Verters, and trying to get my first one going,  
> just to test
>  >> this voodoo crazy thing Hector, and Doug, were doing.
>  >> My emotions were high when the big lump of cast iron motor ran  
> full speed,
>  >> just as they said it would.
>  >> I found myself running this mass on a tiny speaker wire of 26 gauge, just
>  >> to prove to myself, I was not hallucinating- and my amp meters were
>  >> mis-reading the draw of 200ma. at 110 volts 60hz AC.
>  >> Once the magic full speed rotation happens with that 140uf cap, it was
>  >> taken out of the start circuit, and the motors keep running, whether with
>  >> grease, and seals or not.
>  >> The one with seals, and grease uses 400ma of current, while removing the
>  >> seals the other motor uses 200 ma.
>  >> Both motors were brand new,, when I got them as surplus movie props from
>  >> Del Toro's "Pacific Rim"
>  >> It was cheaper to buy these real ones from China, than to have me make
>  >> fake ones out of foam plastic, for a giant industrial scene in the movie.
>  >> After the movie, I bought a pallet of these motors at the props sale. No
>  >> one else wanted them as they were 480 volt three phase, and no  
> one has that
>  >> voltage in their homes and ordinary workshops here in Canada. They are in
>  >> the realm of heavy industries only, outside the core of major cities, in
>  >> industrial zones, with their special electrical sub stations  
> pulling power
>  >> from the main transmission grid. People buying at film prop sales don't
>  >> buy for such heavy industries, or is it usual for film companies  
> to buy the
>  >> real thing new. I was just lucky to be working on this giant 200 million
>  >> dollar budget film, with a director who likes the real stuff  
> when possible.
>  >> They bought containers of stuff from China, for scenes in the film.
>  >> It was less trouble than shooting in China.
>  >> That's the only reason I got my curious little hands on new motors, that
>  >> never had to do anything except look pretty, as part of some giant robot.
>  >> I don't spend a lot of money on my experiments. Hundreds have ended in
>  >> failures, or miserable complicated contraptions that barely show any
>  >> promise of running themselves.
>  >> Hector, in spite of his flamboyant language sometimes, redeemed himself
>  >> with this device, his Rotoverter. It works magic.
>  >> At least, in my tests,1.614 times over unity. (Hector claims  
> 1.618. I have
>  >> more to improve)
>  >> You are having a problem with yours, I have never experienced
>  >> Ask others in this group. Doug is reliable, and has a lot more  
> experience,
>  >> than I have, with this device.
>  >> Cheers Warren
>  >>
>  >> ent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>  >>  
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature  
> https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
>  >>
>  >> On Thu., 27 Jun. 2019 at 2:41 a.m., info@... mailto:info@... [EVGRAY]
>  >> <[email protected] mailto:[email protected]> wrote:
>  >>
>  >>
>  >>
>  >> Hi, I wanted to thank all the guys who answered me to try to help me
>  >> solve problems with a rotoverter. The variac has arrived, but even if
>  >> placed at 1/4 of the current foreseen in connection to Y, the thing
>  >> does not change, the rotor turning without load heats up, the current
>  >> consumption is low, about 0.5 amp. which increases if the capacitor
>  >> microfarads increase, and the power is low .... the only doubt I have
>  >> left is the capacitors ... they are the normal ones for AC that they
>  >> sell in electronics stores, and not the old ones in oil bath ...
>  >> that's the problem ...? Has anyone ever done the same?
>  >>
>  >> info@... mailto:info@... ha scritto:
>  >>
>  >> > Hi everyone, I'm new to the group and first of all I wanted to thank
>  >> > everyone for their kindness. I have a problem with a rotoverter. The
>  >> > motor is a three-phase 5,5horse, 50 hertz (I am in Italy), 4
>  >> > windings. 690v star connection. 1440rpm per minute (the engine can
>  >> > even go up to 60 hertz with 830V and 1730 revolutions is shown on
>  >> > the plate) Now I am testing it with the 220v 50herz rotoverter
>  >> > system, but I saw that it has little force and the rotor (cage)
>  >> > squirrel) warms up a lot ..... how come? ... I bought a variac to
>  >> > bring the voltage to 1/4 (172 volts) and I'm waiting for it to
>  >> > arrive, but is that just the problem or else? ...... Thank you so
>  >> > much for helping me out.
>  >>
>  >>
>  >>

e engine looks okay, the insulation is ok, it doesn't discharge to the  
ground, impedance between the windings is about 5ohms, but I didn't  
understand a thing, an engine like mine with 5.5 horses, how many  
horses should have in mode 'rotoverter?



"[email protected] [EVGRAY]" <[email protected]> ha scritto:

> Hi @lamaisonpescara
>
> "...and does not have the strength that a 5.5
>  horsepower should have..."
> The motor has to be derated when running in rotoverter mode  
> according to Hector. It is probably overloaded if trying to run at  
> nominal power.
>
> Check if the rotor is damaged. Is the insulation between the  
> laminated steel sheets in working order? The current has to run in  
> the squirrel cage and not in the metal sheets.
>
> Regards
> Ole
>
>
> ---In [email protected], <info@...> wrote :
>
>  Thanks Warren for the availability, ... I hope that Doug can help me,
>  the problem is that the engine runs at full speed, even with only 2
>  phases once it starts, without capacitors, and without load it absorbs
>  very little, 0.2 AMP, however, turning the rotor very warm (not the
>  stator with the windings), and does not have the strength that a 5.5
>  horsepower should have.
>
>
>
>
>
>  "James Glinski jglinski01@... mailto:jglinski01@... [EVGRAY]"  
> <[email protected] mailto:[email protected]>
>  ha scritto:
>
>  > Send some pics of your set up .i t may help .
>  >
>  > On Thursday, June 27, 2019, Warren Keillor  
> schoonersolsticemoon@... mailto:schoonersolsticemoon@...
>  > [EVGRAY] <[email protected] mailto:[email protected]> wrote:
>  >
>  >>
>  >>
>  >> Hi Info
>  >> Something is wrong.
>  >> My WEG, once up to speed, will run
>  >> even without capacitors in the circuit.
>  >> I never ran it long like that, because I was always trying to get the
>  >> current draw as low as possible.
>  >> Now , I had better dig one of my Roroverters out of storage, and  
> test that
>  >> to see if if might, in that condition, heat up.
>  >> I use a 140, or 120 uf motor start capacitor to get my motors turning at
>  >> full 60 hz speed, before I begin my play with them, using my capacitor
>  >> tuning boxes.
>  >> As I said, I had difficulty finding oil filled high voltage, low value uf
>  >> capacitors, which are what I have been using. I have not tried  
> other types,
>  >> as I scored a whole bin of these oil filled kind, in an old electronics
>  >> surplus store in downtown Toronto, ( which has since moved to  
> some suburban
>  >> industrial area miles out of downtown) The oil filled, are not  
> common, but
>  >> are not perhaps the only kind that work. They are only my  
> experience, as I
>  >> was new to Roto Verters, and trying to get my first one going,  
> just to test
>  >> this voodoo crazy thing Hector, and Doug, were doing.
>  >> My emotions were high when the big lump of cast iron motor ran  
> full speed,
>  >> just as they said it would.
>  >> I found myself running this mass on a tiny speaker wire of 26 gauge, just
>  >> to prove to myself, I was not hallucinating- and my amp meters were
>  >> mis-reading the draw of 200ma. at 110 volts 60hz AC.
>  >> Once the magic full speed rotation happens with that 140uf cap, it was
>  >> taken out of the start circuit, and the motors keep running, whether with
>  >> grease, and seals or not.
>  >> The one with seals, and grease uses 400ma of current, while removing the
>  >> seals the other motor uses 200 ma.
>  >> Both motors were brand new,, when I got them as surplus movie props from
>  >> Del Toro's "Pacific Rim"
>  >> It was cheaper to buy these real ones from China, than to have me make
>  >> fake ones out of foam plastic, for a giant industrial scene in the movie.
>  >> After the movie, I bought a pallet of these motors at the props sale. No
>  >> one else wanted them as they were 480 volt three phase, and no  
> one has that
>  >> voltage in their homes and ordinary workshops here in Canada. They are in
>  >> the realm of heavy industries only, outside the core of major cities, in
>  >> industrial zones, with their special electrical sub stations  
> pulling power
>  >> from the main transmission grid. People buying at film prop sales don't
>  >> buy for such heavy industries, or is it usual for film companies  
> to buy the
>  >> real thing new. I was just lucky to be working on this giant 200 million
>  >> dollar budget film, with a director who likes the real stuff  
> when possible.
>  >> They bought containers of stuff from China, for scenes in the film.
>  >> It was less trouble than shooting in China.
>  >> That's the only reason I got my curious little hands on new motors, that
>  >> never had to do anything except look pretty, as part of some giant robot.
>  >> I don't spend a lot of money on my experiments. Hundreds have ended in
>  >> failures, or miserable complicated contraptions that barely show any
>  >> promise of running themselves.
>  >> Hector, in spite of his flamboyant language sometimes, redeemed himself
>  >> with this device, his Rotoverter. It works magic.
>  >> At least, in my tests,1.614 times over unity. (Hector claims  
> 1.618. I have
>  >> more to improve)
>  >> You are having a problem with yours, I have never experienced
>  >> Ask others in this group. Doug is reliable, and has a lot more  
> experience,
>  >> than I have, with this device.
>  >> Cheers Warren
>  >>
>  >> ent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>  >>  
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature  
> https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
>  >>
>  >> On Thu., 27 Jun. 2019 at 2:41 a.m., info@... mailto:info@... [EVGRAY]
>  >> <[email protected] mailto:[email protected]> wrote:
>  >>
>  >>
>  >>
>  >> Hi, I wanted to thank all the guys who answered me to try to help me
>  >> solve problems with a rotoverter. The variac has arrived, but even if
>  >> placed at 1/4 of the current foreseen in connection to Y, the thing
>  >> does not change, the rotor turning without load heats up, the current
>  >> consumption is low, about 0.5 amp. which increases if the capacitor
>  >> microfarads increase, and the power is low .... the only doubt I have
>  >> left is the capacitors ... they are the normal ones for AC that they
>  >> sell in electronics stores, and not the old ones in oil bath ...
>  >> that's the problem ...? Has anyone ever done the same?
>  >>
>  >> info@... mailto:info@... ha scritto:
>  >>
>  >> > Hi everyone, I'm new to the group and first of all I wanted to thank
>  >> > everyone for their kindness. I have a problem with a rotoverter. The
>  >> > motor is a three-phase 5,5horse, 50 hertz (I am in Italy), 4
>  >> > windings. 690v star connection. 1440rpm per minute (the engine can
>  >> > even go up to 60 hertz with 830V and 1730 revolutions is shown on
>  >> > the plate) Now I am testing it with the 220v 50herz rotoverter
>  >> > system, but I saw that it has little force and the rotor (cage)
>  >> > squirrel) warms up a lot ..... how come? ... I bought a variac to
>  >> > bring the voltage to 1/4 (172 volts) and I'm waiting for it to
>  >> > arrive, but is that just the problem or else? ...... Thank you so
>  >> > much for helping me out.
>  >>
>  >>
>  >>

Hi Italian dude working on rotovertor
Ok spinning a big two meterr flywheel with a rotovertor AC motor is going to be project!
A 5hp size 3ph motor is only going to be like a 1bp motor in shaft power, when you do the rotovertor conversion.
Getting that flywheel spinning from stop will be near impossible, you will need some other motor working as a starter motor for a few.minutes, then bring in the rotovertor motor once flywheel going speed you want.
Rotovertor since latched to sinewave, has only a 7% allowance in rpm drop under load and it will drop out of latch with sinewave, and stall. So you going to need very specific ratios of belts and pulleys to make it so it keeps that flywheel spinning especially when your generator is loaded..
Are you getting that heat in rotor when you do spin the flywhelel?? Are you that far yet?  If so, then the heat is probably the battle of rotor slipping out of sinewave. But the flywheel makes it revolve when it doesn't want to.....during this time the motor is alternator, maybe you can tap out power during this time.
I will think your project is going to need many run cap sizes,, a variable frequency drive so you are not limited to the sinewave frequency in what speed motor goes, and also that variac, and eventually a bigger motor and one of permanent magnet rotor type too so it is synchronous type motor not non synchronous so will have more power, wiil not slip so easily out of such and not always be stalling and requiring a restart...
Kone

One fifth the shaft  power you will have in RV mode.

Thanks for the help, you are very kind, even the others with their  
advice. The rotoverter heats up turning without load, with the free  
shaft it becomes very hot after a few minutes, even bringing the  
condensers to a minimum, type 1.5 microfarad, it runs well, the engine  
is new and absorbs little, about 0.2A, not should it stay cold ...?  
only the rotor is warmed up, the stator with the windings remains  
cold, but I fear that the heat of the rotor is transmitted to the  
locator damaging it. I noticed that the motor has more force with the  
current at 220 V without variac (at 172V) ... it will be because it is  
an engine that can work even at 60hertz, 690V ....? (I use it at  
50hertz of the network, without inverter).







"[email protected] [EVGRAY]" <[email protected]> ha scritto:

> Hi Italian dude working on rotovertor
> Ok spinning a big two meterr flywheel with a rotovertor AC motor is  
> going to be project!
> A 5hp size 3ph motor is only going to be like a 1bp motor in shaft  
> power, when you do the rotovertor conversion.
> Getting that flywheel spinning from stop will be near impossible,  
> you will need some other motor working as a starter motor for a  
> few.minutes, then bring in the rotovertor motor once flywheel going  
> speed you want.
> Rotovertor since latched to sinewave, has only a 7% allowance in rpm  
> drop under load and it will drop out of latch with sinewave, and  
> stall. So you going to need very specific ratios of belts and  
> pulleys to make it so it keeps that flywheel spinning especially  
> when your generator is loaded..
> Are you getting that heat in rotor when you do spin the flywhelel??  
> Are you that far yet?  If so, then the heat is probably the battle  
> of rotor slipping out of sinewave. But the flywheel makes it revolve  
> when it doesn't want to.....during this time the motor is  
> alternator, maybe you can tap out power during this time.
> I will think your project is going to need many run cap sizes,, a  
> variable frequency drive so you are not limited to the sinewave  
> frequency in what speed motor goes, and also that variac, and  
> eventually a bigger motor and one of permanent magnet rotor type too  
> so it is synchronous type motor not non synchronous so will have  
> more power, wiil not slip so easily out of such and not always be  
> stalling and requiring a restart...
> Kone