Re: help!
70
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·
2019-06-25T08:46:52+00:00
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2019-07-19T03:16:05+00:00
[21/70] Re: [EVGRAY] help!
2019-06-29T09:39:05+02:00
·
unknown
<[email protected]>
Message-ID:
<20190629093905.Horde.pj9U2mVf0e-RmBHcqkiWxS7@webmail.lamaisonpescara.com>
Thank you again for the help, if I have 1/5 of the plate power in the rotoverter, then here we are, only the problem of overheating is still empty ... I will try to remove the grease from the bearings, perhaps it is its friction ....? but it seems strange to me. I will follow the advice to put another engine to turn the big flywheel, so it will have more strength for the start and in case of big loads on the alternator. "[email protected] [EVGRAY]" <[email protected]> ha scritto: > One fifth the shaft power you will have in RV mode.
[22/70] Re: [EVGRAY] help!
2019-06-29T09:51:59+02:00
·
unknown
<[email protected]>
Message-ID:
<20190629095159.Horde.gJRctgxZdpPqIYoK0CGbNYK@webmail.lamaisonpescara.com>
thank you very much, I hope I can make it work, I wouldn't want to waste so much time, effort and money on a wrong idea. Surely mine is a prototype, so it will take several attempts to make it go, but we will strive to succeed. As soon as I can I show you some pictures, .... by the way, I apologize to you if I didn't show up, I'm Luca Sabatini, from Italy. "Warren Keillor [email protected] [EVGRAY]" <[email protected]> ha scritto: > InfoHere I am, back again.I have not done it with my RVsI have a 90 > lb flywheel from a marine diesel engine, set in good bearings on a > 1" shaft (25mm,) in a sturdy steel angle iron frame, able to take > any number and size of motors and generators attached with ve belts, > and pulleys.I also have a complete inventory of different sizes of > pulleys and belts.So far, I have had no joy.I have not given up, it > is stored in a distant barn, and needs to be moved closer to where > there is heat, light, and electricity.I see a lot of devices of this > kind that people have put a lot of time and effort into. They seem > to work.I just can't imagine all that for the revenue from some damn > you tube video.Does anybody know if frauds get lost of bucks faking > you tube energy videos? Then why are they there? Fame?Beats me! A > lot of bother for what?Now about RVs from only my experience I put > in 1.5 amps of 12 volt DCRun it through an inverterDrive the RV to > speed of 1800 rpmThen open the shunt switch on the capacitor tuning > circuit that then put a 120 volt to 12 volt transformer in series > with the capacitors.I then rectified that AC and then ran a DC load > at 2.5 amps DC measured at the brushes.It was an electric trolling > motor for a small boat.I also ran a Rene charger off the > transformer"s 20 volt multi tap winding, at no measurable amperage > load at the battery.One is able to charge at least 10 batterys at > once with no extra load on the Rene draw.You only get 1/3 the rated > hp from the shaft of an RV as far as I know.Cheers WarrenSent from > Yahoo Mail on Android > > On Fri., 28 Jun. 2019 at 3:29 p.m., [email protected] > [EVGRAY]<[email protected]> wrote: > Guys I'll explain my idea. I'm building a power generator so I can get > off the national grid, because in Italy they are thieves. The system > is that of Chas Campbell, a large flywheel of 2 meters in diameter > (about 7 feet) weighing about 550 pounds that is rotated by this 5.5 > horsepower engine in a rotoverter way, and the wheel will turn a 8kwa > three-phase alternator (11kw but effective 8kwa). Only I would like to > connect everything with straps to turn the wheel, and not in a jerked > way, but continued. Have any of you already tried to do it? > > "[email protected] [EVGRAY]" <[email protected]> ha scritto: > >> Hi @lamaisonpescara >> >> "...and does not have the strength that a 5.5 >> horsepower should have..." >> The motor has to be derated when running in rotoverter mode >> according to Hector. It is probably overloaded if trying to run at >> nominal power. >> >> Check if the rotor is damaged. Is the insulation between the >> laminated steel sheets in working order? The current has to run in >> the squirrel cage and not in the metal sheets. >> >> Regards >> Ole >> >> >> ---In [email protected], <info@...> wrote : >> >> Thanks Warren for the availability, ... I hope that Doug can help me, >> the problem is that the engine runs at full speed, even with only 2 >> phases once it starts, without capacitors, and without load it absorbs >> very little, 0.2 AMP, however, turning the rotor very warm (not the >> stator with the windings), and does not have the strength that a 5.5 >> horsepower should have. >> >> >> >> >> >> "James Glinski jglinski01@... mailto:jglinski01@... [EVGRAY]" >> <[email protected] mailto:[email protected]> >> ha scritto: >> >> > Send some pics of your set up .i t may help . >> > >> > On Thursday, June 27, 2019, Warren Keillor >> schoonersolsticemoon@... mailto:schoonersolsticemoon@... >> > [EVGRAY] <[email protected] mailto:[email protected]> wrote: >> > >> >> >> >> >> >> Hi Info >> >> Something is wrong. >> >> My WEG, once up to speed, will run >> >> even without capacitors in the circuit. >> >> I never ran it long like that, because I was always trying to get the >> >> current draw as low as possible. >> >> Now , I had better dig one of my Roroverters out of storage, and >> test that >> >> to see if if might, in that condition, heat up. >> >> I use a 140, or 120 uf motor start capacitor to get my motors turning at >> >> full 60 hz speed, before I begin my play with them, using my capacitor >> >> tuning boxes. >> >> As I said, I had difficulty finding oil filled high voltage, low value uf >> >> capacitors, which are what I have been using. I have not tried >> other types, >> >> as I scored a whole bin of these oil filled kind, in an old electronics >> >> surplus store in downtown Toronto, ( which has since moved to >> some suburban >> >> industrial area miles out of downtown) The oil filled, are not >> common, but >> >> are not perhaps the only kind that work. They are only my >> experience, as I >> >> was new to Roto Verters, and trying to get my first one going, >> just to test >> >> this voodoo crazy thing Hector, and Doug, were doing. >> >> My emotions were high when the big lump of cast iron motor ran >> full speed, >> >> just as they said it would. >> >> I found myself running this mass on a tiny speaker wire of 26 gauge, just >> >> to prove to myself, I was not hallucinating- and my amp meters were >> >> mis-reading the draw of 200ma. at 110 volts 60hz AC. >> >> Once the magic full speed rotation happens with that 140uf cap, it was >> >> taken out of the start circuit, and the motors keep running, whether with >> >> grease, and seals or not. >> >> The one with seals, and grease uses 400ma of current, while removing the >> >> seals the other motor uses 200 ma. >> >> Both motors were brand new,, when I got them as surplus movie props from >> >> Del Toro's "Pacific Rim" >> >> It was cheaper to buy these real ones from China, than to have me make >> >> fake ones out of foam plastic, for a giant industrial scene in the movie. >> >> After the movie, I bought a pallet of these motors at the props sale. No >> >> one else wanted them as they were 480 volt three phase, and no >> one has that >> >> voltage in their homes and ordinary workshops here in Canada. They are in >> >> the realm of heavy industries only, outside the core of major cities, in >> >> industrial zones, with their special electrical sub stations >> pulling power >> >> from the main transmission grid. People buying at film prop sales don't >> >> buy for such heavy industries, or is it usual for film companies >> to buy the >> >> real thing new. I was just lucky to be working on this giant 200 million >> >> dollar budget film, with a director who likes the real stuff >> when possible. >> >> They bought containers of stuff from China, for scenes in the film. >> >> It was less trouble than shooting in China. >> >> That's the only reason I got my curious little hands on new motors, that >> >> never had to do anything except look pretty, as part of some giant robot. >> >> I don't spend a lot of money on my experiments. Hundreds have ended in >> >> failures, or miserable complicated contraptions that barely show any >> >> promise of running themselves. >> >> Hector, in spite of his flamboyant language sometimes, redeemed himself >> >> with this device, his Rotoverter. It works magic. >> >> At least, in my tests,1.614 times over unity. (Hector claims >> 1.618. I have >> >> more to improve) >> >> You are having a problem with yours, I have never experienced >> >> Ask others in this group. Doug is reliable, and has a lot more >> experience, >> >> than I have, with this device. >> >> Cheers Warren >> >> >> >> ent from Yahoo Mail on Android >> >> >> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers_wl=ym_sub1=Internal_sub2=Global_YGrowth_sub3=EmailSignature >> https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers_wl=ym_sub1=Internal_sub2=Global_YGrowth_sub3=EmailSignature> >> >> >> >> On Thu., 27 Jun. 2019 at 2:41 a.m., info@... mailto:info@... [EVGRAY] >> >> <[email protected] mailto:[email protected]> wrote: >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Hi, I wanted to thank all the guys who answered me to try to help me >> >> solve problems with a rotoverter. The variac has arrived, but even if >> >> placed at 1/4 of the current foreseen in connection to Y, the thing >> >> does not change, the rotor turning without load heats up, the current >> >> consumption is low, about 0.5 amp. which increases if the capacitor >> >> microfarads increase, and the power is low .... the only doubt I have >> >> left is the capacitors ... they are the normal ones for AC that they >> >> sell in electronics stores, and not the old ones in oil bath ... >> >> that's the problem ...? Has anyone ever done the same? >> >> >> >> info@... mailto:info@... ha scritto: >> >> >> >> > Hi everyone, I'm new to the group and first of all I wanted to thank >> >> > everyone for their kindness. I have a problem with a rotoverter. The >> >> > motor is a three-phase 5,5horse, 50 hertz (I am in Italy), 4 >> >> > windings. 690v star connection. 1440rpm per minute (the engine can >> >> > even go up to 60 hertz with 830V and 1730 revolutions is shown on >> >> > the plate) Now I am testing it with the 220v 50herz rotoverter >> >> > system, but I saw that it has little force and the rotor (cage) >> >> > squirrel) warms up a lot ..... how come? ... I bought a variac to >> >> > bring the voltage to 1/4 (172 volts) and I'm waiting for it to >> >> > arrive, but is that just the problem or else? ...... Thank you so >> >> > much for helping me out. >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > #yiv8826109096 #yiv8826109096 -- #yiv8826109096ygrp-mkp > {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 > 10px;}#yiv8826109096 #yiv8826109096ygrp-mkp hr {border:1px solid > #d8d8d8;}#yiv8826109096 #yiv8826109096ygrp-mkp #yiv8826109096hd > {color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px > 0;}#yiv8826109096 #yiv8826109096ygrp-mkp #yiv8826109096ads > {margin-bottom:10px;}#yiv8826109096 #yiv8826109096ygrp-mkp > .yiv8826109096ad {padding:0 0;}#yiv8826109096 #yiv8826109096ygrp-mkp > .yiv8826109096ad p {margin:0;}#yiv8826109096 #yiv8826109096ygrp-mkp > .yiv8826109096ad a > {color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;}#yiv8826109096 > #yiv8826109096ygrp-sponsor #yiv8826109096ygrp-lc > {font-family:Arial;}#yiv8826109096 #yiv8826109096ygrp-sponsor > #yiv8826109096ygrp-lc #yiv8826109096hd {margin:10px > 0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;}#yiv8826109096 > 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[23/70] Re: [EVGRAY] help!
2019-06-29T11:11:47+00:00
·
Warren Keillor
<[email protected]>
Message-ID:
<[email protected]>
InfoThe rotor seems to be subject to eddy currents, perhaps?Somehow this RV has been turned into an induction heater?Hector needs to be consulted on this problem, to give some input as to why this motor is curiously out of sync, somehow.Assuming it is newish, and in normal running shape, there seems to be a lack of harmony between the windings and the core rotor, yet as you say, it does seem to run at expected speed. Strange, indeed!Cheers Warren Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Sat., 29 Jun. 2019 at 3:29 a.m., [email protected] [EVGRAY]<[email protected]> wrote: Thanks for the help, you are very kind, even the others with their advice. The rotoverter heats up turning without load, with the free shaft it becomes very hot after a few minutes, even bringing the condensers to a minimum, type 1.5 microfarad, it runs well, the engine is new and absorbs little, about 0.2A, not should it stay cold ...? only the rotor is warmed up, the stator with the windings remains cold, but I fear that the heat of the rotor is transmitted to the locator damaging it. I noticed that the motor has more force with the current at 220 V without variac (at 172V) ... it will be because it is an engine that can work even at 60hertz, 690V ....? (I use it at 50hertz of the network, without inverter). "[email protected] [EVGRAY]" <[email protected]> ha scritto: > Hi Italian dude working on rotovertor > Ok spinning a big two meterr flywheel with a rotovertor AC motor is > going to be project! > A 5hp size 3ph motor is only going to be like a 1bp motor in shaft > power, when you do the rotovertor conversion. > Getting that flywheel spinning from stop will be near impossible, > you will need some other motor working as a starter motor for a > few.minutes, then bring in the rotovertor motor once flywheel going > speed you want. > Rotovertor since latched to sinewave, has only a 7% allowance in rpm > drop under load and it will drop out of latch with sinewave, and > stall. So you going to need very specific ratios of belts and > pulleys to make it so it keeps that flywheel spinning especially > when your generator is loaded.. > Are you getting that heat in rotor when you do spin the flywhelel?? > Are you that far yet? If so, then the heat is probably the battle > of rotor slipping out of sinewave. But the flywheel makes it revolve > when it doesn't want to.....during this time the motor is > alternator, maybe you can tap out power during this time. > I will think your project is going to need many run cap sizes,, a > variable frequency drive so you are not limited to the sinewave > frequency in what speed motor goes, and also that variac, and > eventually a bigger motor and one of permanent magnet rotor type too > so it is synchronous type motor not non synchronous so will have > more power, wiil not slip so easily out of such and not always be > stalling and requiring a restart... > Kone #yiv6776681516 #yiv6776681516 -- #yiv6776681516ygrp-mkp {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;}#yiv6776681516 #yiv6776681516ygrp-mkp hr {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;}#yiv6776681516 #yiv6776681516ygrp-mkp #yiv6776681516hd {color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;}#yiv6776681516 #yiv6776681516ygrp-mkp #yiv6776681516ads 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[24/70] Re: [EVGRAY] help!
2019-06-29T11:26:32+00:00
·
Warren Keillor
<[email protected]>
Message-ID:
<[email protected]>
Info.I am opposed to removing the grease and seals on a motor that is to have a practical longevity, rather than just for experiments.If the grease and seals make such a difference,( in my experiment x 2 the free spinning shaft draw, from .2 to .4) to ruin your project, keep in mind, the grease issue is just a base line. It does not factor into the load cslculations, beyond that .2 additional drag. Don't sweat it. Keep your bearings running on your rotary transformer.Cheers Warren Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Sat., 29 Jun. 2019 at 3:39 a.m., [email protected] [EVGRAY]<[email protected]> wrote: Thank you again for the help, if I have 1/5 of the plate power in the rotoverter, then here we are, only the problem of overheating is still empty ... I will try to remove the grease from the bearings, perhaps it is its friction ....? but it seems strange to me. I will follow the advice to put another engine to turn the big flywheel, so it will have more strength for the start and in case of big loads on the alternator. "[email protected] [EVGRAY]" <[email protected]> ha scritto: > One fifth the shaft power you will have in RV mode. #yiv4539277554 #yiv4539277554 -- #yiv4539277554ygrp-mkp {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;}#yiv4539277554 #yiv4539277554ygrp-mkp hr {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;}#yiv4539277554 #yiv4539277554ygrp-mkp #yiv4539277554hd {color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;}#yiv4539277554 #yiv4539277554ygrp-mkp #yiv4539277554ads {margin-bottom:10px;}#yiv4539277554 #yiv4539277554ygrp-mkp .yiv4539277554ad {padding:0 0;}#yiv4539277554 #yiv4539277554ygrp-mkp .yiv4539277554ad p {margin:0;}#yiv4539277554 #yiv4539277554ygrp-mkp .yiv4539277554ad a {color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;}#yiv4539277554 #yiv4539277554ygrp-sponsor #yiv4539277554ygrp-lc {font-family:Arial;}#yiv4539277554 #yiv4539277554ygrp-sponsor #yiv4539277554ygrp-lc #yiv4539277554hd {margin:10px 0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;}#yiv4539277554 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[25/70] Re: [EVGRAY] help!
2019-06-29T12:28:12+00:00
·
Douglas Konzen
<[email protected]>
Message-ID:
<[email protected]>
Hi Warren and Luca Could be the rotor is not centered .. Ch ecm the endplates they could be not instAlled correctly...by factory , or when it was taken apart. Factory grease is usually super thick goopy.mess I suggest clean it all out replace with minimum amount of modern Teflon based oil or gesse, save yourself 20 watts...at leaxt thin it dolwn with auto transmission fluid or carb cleaner ceramic bearings are ultimare...put in some slim thinner width ones but sam ID and OD
[26/70] Re: [EVGRAY] help!
2019-06-29T12:56:55+00:00
·
Warren Keillor
<[email protected]>
Message-ID:
<[email protected]>
Doug.When I gutted one of my new WEG motors, the grease just seemed to be ordinary wheel bearing blue stuff, not that heavy, just like Vasoline.Cheers Warren Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Sat., 29 Jun. 2019 at 8:28 a.m., [email protected] [EVGRAY]<[email protected]> wrote: Hi Warren and Luca Could be the rotor is not centered .. Ch ecm the endplates they could be not instAlled correctly...by factory , or when it was taken apart. Factory grease is usually super thick goopy.mess I suggest clean it all out replace with minimum amount of modern Teflon based oil or gesse, save yourself 20 watts...at leaxt thin it dolwn with auto transmission fluid or carb cleaner ceramic bearings are ultimare...put in some slim thinner width ones but sam ID and OD #yiv7516786581 #yiv7516786581 -- #yiv7516786581ygrp-mkp {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;}#yiv7516786581 #yiv7516786581ygrp-mkp hr {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;}#yiv7516786581 #yiv7516786581ygrp-mkp #yiv7516786581hd {color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;}#yiv7516786581 #yiv7516786581ygrp-mkp #yiv7516786581ads {margin-bottom:10px;}#yiv7516786581 #yiv7516786581ygrp-mkp .yiv7516786581ad {padding:0 0;}#yiv7516786581 #yiv7516786581ygrp-mkp .yiv7516786581ad p {margin:0;}#yiv7516786581 #yiv7516786581ygrp-mkp .yiv7516786581ad a {color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;}#yiv7516786581 #yiv7516786581ygrp-sponsor 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[27/70] Re: [EVGRAY] help!
2019-06-29T19:01:07+02:00
·
unknown
<[email protected]>
Message-ID:
<20190629190107.Horde.72z-y78ytdGiWOTFygeWH3R@webmail.lamaisonpescara.com>
hi Warren, in fact it is strange, without load it turns even without the third phase (once started I can completely disconnect the capacitors), but it heats up, the rotor shaft becomes hot .... anyway checking the absorption on the three phases , I have seen that they are not equal, they are to scale, and if I increase the capacitors (8-40 microfarads), the phase connected with them increases, while the other two go down .... what must be the best combination .... ? perhaps the most possible equal? "Warren Keillor [email protected] [EVGRAY]" <[email protected]> ha scritto: > InfoThe rotor seems to be subject to eddy currents, perhaps?Somehow > this RV has been turned into an induction heater?Hector needs to be > consulted on this problem, to give some input as to why this motor > is curiously out of sync, somehow.Assuming it is newish, and in > normal running shape, there seems to be a lack of harmony between > the windings and the core rotor, yet as you say, it does seem to run > at expected speed. Strange, indeed!Cheers Warren > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > > On Sat., 29 Jun. 2019 at 3:29 a.m., [email protected] > [EVGRAY]<[email protected]> wrote: > Thanks for the help, you are very kind, even the others with their > advice. The rotoverter heats up turning without load, with the free > shaft it becomes very hot after a few minutes, even bringing the > condensers to a minimum, type 1.5 microfarad, it runs well, the engine > is new and absorbs little, about 0.2A, not should it stay cold ...? > only the rotor is warmed up, the stator with the windings remains > cold, but I fear that the heat of the rotor is transmitted to the > locator damaging it. I noticed that the motor has more force with the > current at 220 V without variac (at 172V) ... it will be because it is > an engine that can work even at 60hertz, 690V ....? (I use it at > 50hertz of the network, without inverter). > > "[email protected] [EVGRAY]" <[email protected]> ha scritto: > >> Hi Italian dude working on rotovertor >> Ok spinning a big two meterr flywheel with a rotovertor AC motor is >> going to be project! >> A 5hp size 3ph motor is only going to be like a 1bp motor in shaft >> power, when you do the rotovertor conversion. >> Getting that flywheel spinning from stop will be near impossible, >> you will need some other motor working as a starter motor for a >> few.minutes, then bring in the rotovertor motor once flywheel going >> speed you want. >> Rotovertor since latched to sinewave, has only a 7% allowance in rpm >> drop under load and it will drop out of latch with sinewave, and >> stall. So you going to need very specific ratios of belts and >> pulleys to make it so it keeps that flywheel spinning especially >> when your generator is loaded.. >> Are you getting that heat in rotor when you do spin the flywhelel?? >> Are you that far yet? If so, then the heat is probably the battle >> of rotor slipping out of sinewave. But the flywheel makes it revolve >> when it doesn't want to.....during this time the motor is >> alternator, maybe you can tap out power during this time. >> I will think your project is going to need many run cap sizes,, a >> variable frequency drive so you are not limited to the sinewave >> frequency in what speed motor goes, and also that variac, and >> eventually a bigger motor and one of permanent magnet rotor type too >> so it is synchronous type motor not non synchronous so will have >> more power, wiil not slip so easily out of such and not always be >> stalling and requiring a restart... >> Kone > > > #yiv6776681516 #yiv6776681516 -- #yiv6776681516ygrp-mkp > {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 > 10px;}#yiv6776681516 #yiv6776681516ygrp-mkp hr {border:1px solid > #d8d8d8;}#yiv6776681516 #yiv6776681516ygrp-mkp #yiv6776681516hd > {color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px > 0;}#yiv6776681516 #yiv6776681516ygrp-mkp 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[28/70] Re: [EVGRAY] help!
2019-06-29T19:34:10+02:00
·
unknown
<[email protected]>
Message-ID:
<20190629193410.Horde.zNG1n0FF2zQAHVibWOHjen2@webmail.lamaisonpescara.com>
Thank you, the rotor seems to turn well, without friction, but I will follow your advice and dismantle it to check well, "[email protected] [EVGRAY]" <[email protected]> ha scritto: > Hi Warren and Luca > Could be the rotor is not centered .. > Ch ecm the endplates they could be not instAlled correctly...by > factory , or when it was taken apart. > Factory grease is usually super thick goopy.mess > I suggest clean it all out replace with minimum amount of modern > Teflon based oil or gesse, save yourself 20 watts...at leaxt thin it > dolwn with auto transmission fluid or carb cleaner > ceramic bearings are ultimare...put in some slim thinner width ones > but sam ID and OD
[29/70] Re: [EVGRAY] help!
2019-06-30T06:17:16+00:00
·
Douglas Konzen
<[email protected]>
Message-ID:
<[email protected]>
Hi Luca Whenever I dismantle a motor for RV, I mark exactly how the end plates bolding tbe bearings are at, first before removing them. It's easy to put them back 90 orv180 degrees different as they should be and if I do tbis, sometimes the rotor might scrape s bit or it just spins very poorly. Yours ould of been poorly manufactured easily. I am thinking perhaps there is .25mm aigap at top of rotor between stator cores, and maybe 3mm gap below as extreme exame. or one en of rotor sits much higher than other emd.....if so with aluminum alloy rotor being so close, eddy currents can create the heat you find. Also check the impedance of the three phases too they should be same. Try using different phases of the motor as run cap phase try reversing spin of rotor by running phases opposite I think 6 combinations possible? Also bring the power input down to 85v see if any heat there, then bring up voltage until you find some. Maybe your rotor made of very inferior alloy contains too much iron. Kone
[30/70] Re: [EVGRAY] help!
2019-06-30T17:34:41+00:00
·
triadutrad <[email protected]>
<[email protected]>
Message-ID:
<[email protected]>
One way to re-lube RV bearings is add some transmission fluid oil to the bearings and not removing the seals, just inject using oil syringe .... will bleed some oil and grease but will run very low friction afterwards ! (H) ---In [email protected], <schoonersolsticemoon@...> wrote : Doug. When I gutted one of my new WEG motors, the grease just seemed to be ordinary wheel bearing blue stuff, not that heavy, just like Vasoline. Cheers Warren Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature On Sat., 29 Jun. 2019 at 8:28 a.m., konehead@... [EVGRAY] <[email protected]> wrote: Hi Warren and Luca Could be the rotor is not centered .. Ch ecm the endplates they could be not instAlled correctly...by factory , or when it was taken apart. Factory grease is usually super thick goopy.mess I suggest clean it all out replace with minimum amount of modern Teflon based oil or gesse, save yourself 20 watts...at leaxt thin it dolwn with auto transmission fluid or carb cleaner ceramic bearings are ultimare...put in some slim thinner width ones but sam ID and OD
[31/70] Re: [EVGRAY] help!
2019-07-02T04:10:46-07:00
·
Douglas Konzen
<[email protected]>
Message-ID:
<[email protected]>
Hi Luca I am glad we could help..let us know how project goes. Ciao Kone
[32/70] Re: [EVGRAY] help!
2019-07-02T05:40:47+00:00
·
hvforvolt
<[email protected]>
Message-ID:
<[email protected]>
Ciao Luca , ho fatto anche io 5-6 RV in passato ,sai una cosa : prova a girare il rotore allo opposto ,(apri prendi rotore in mano lo rimonti girato) lo fatto gia e funziona no se scalda piu ! era in alcuni video circa 7- 8 anni fa ,ma a funzionato per me . fammi sapere Pietro
[33/70] Re: [EVGRAY] help!
2019-07-02T07:10:46-07:00
·
hvforvolt
<[email protected]>
Message-ID:
<[email protected]>
Si Guarda che ti perdi con Rv e i volani e difficile mettere tutto in sincronismo ,perche RV ad ogni minimo cambio di sforzo deve cambiare il condensatore ,forse e meglio seguire lo schema di Hector fare il battery charger con il lupping (ricircolo delle correnty con reutilizzo mediante diodi transformatore etcc.) ,fai i volani con un motore normale , magari funziona subito . non farti tante aspettative qua si perde un sacco di tempo ma energia poca .
[34/70] Re: [EVGRAY] help!
2019-07-02T09:24:42+02:00
·
unknown
<[email protected]>
Message-ID:
<20190702092443.Horde.jDZw8GI-ZT1rZvRJDrJTNMy@webmail.lamaisonpescara.com>
thanks for the info, i took the engine apart when it was hot to see exactly where that heat came from. I discovered that it had oil seals mounted on the shaft to prevent dust from entering the bearings, and it was they with their friction that heated the shaft. I removed the spring ring that held them tight on the shaft and greased, now it seems that the problem is solved, it warms up a bit like a normal engine running idle. Again thanks to you guys for advice. Now I'm waiting for the 11kw (8kwa) alternator to come in to mount it and check the system's functionality, and possibly mount another 2 horsepower engine to help it spin (if necessary). "[email protected] [EVGRAY]" <[email protected]> ha scritto: > Hi Luca > Whenever I dismantle a motor for RV, I mark exactly how the end > plates bolding tbe bearings are at, first before removing them. > It's easy to put them back 90 orv180 degrees different as they > should be and if I do tbis, sometimes the rotor might scrape s bit > or it just spins very poorly. > Yours ould of been poorly manufactured easily. > I am thinking perhaps there is .25mm aigap at top of rotor between > stator cores, and maybe 3mm gap below as extreme exame. > or one en of rotor sits much higher than other emd.....if so with > aluminum alloy rotor being so close, eddy currents can create the > heat you find. > Also check the impedance of the three phases too they should be same. > Try using different phases of the motor as run cap phase try > reversing spin of rotor by running phases opposite I think 6 > combinations possible? > Also bring the power input down to 85v see if any heat there, then > bring up voltage until you find some. > Maybe your rotor made of very inferior alloy contains too much iron. > Kone
[35/70] Re: [EVGRAY] help!
2019-07-02T09:31:17+02:00
·
unknown
<[email protected]>
Message-ID:
<20190702093117.Horde.BayhwHVjY3A-_NzKLLb9fS6@webmail.lamaisonpescara.com>
ciao Pietro, ma sei italiano ? "[email protected] [EVGRAY]" <[email protected]> ha scritto: > Ciao Luca , ho fatto anche io 5-6 RV in passato ,sai > una cosa : prova a girare il rotore allo opposto ,(apri > prendi rotore in mano lo rimonti girato) lo fatto gia e > funziona no se scalda piu ! era in alcuni video circa 7- > 8 anni fa ,ma a funzionato per me . > fammi sapere > > > Pietro
[36/70] Re: [EVGRAY] help!
2019-07-02T20:19:15+02:00
·
unknown
<[email protected]>
Message-ID:
<20190702201915.Horde.qb23dU69wMURbvw8XuIrHMA@webmail.lamaisonpescara.com>
Sure guys, I'll keep you updated on how it goes, hopefully good! "[email protected] [EVGRAY]" <[email protected]> ha scritto: > Hi Luca > I am glad we could help..let us know how project goes. > Ciao Kone
[37/70] Re: [EVGRAY] help!
2019-07-02T20:25:17+02:00
·
unknown
<[email protected]>
Message-ID:
<20190702202517.Horde.8TDnU3BObaSO_X7dqRjeIWq@webmail.lamaisonpescara.com>
mi fa piacere che ci sia qualche italiano sul sito. posso chiederti seoltre agli RV hai provato a fare qualche altra cosa ? certo è deludente quello che dici....mi togli le speranze. Di dove sei ? "[email protected] [EVGRAY]" <[email protected]> ha scritto: > Si > Guarda che ti perdi con Rv e i volani e difficile mettere > tutto in sincronismo ,perche RV ad ogni minimo cambio > di sforzo deve cambiare il condensatore ,forse e meglio > seguire lo schema di Hector fare il battery charger con il > lupping (ricircolo delle correnty con reutilizzo mediante > diodi transformatore etcc.) ,fai i volani con un motore > normale , magari funziona subito . non farti tante > aspettative qua si perde un sacco di tempo ma energia poca > .
[38/70] Re: [EVGRAY] help!
2019-07-02T20:28:15+02:00
·
unknown
<[email protected]>
Message-ID:
<20190702202815.Horde.0TfYRIX2vAEDXGHeFEy_FkD@webmail.lamaisonpescara.com>
pensavo di affiancare al RV un motore sincrono che fa da pilota , il RV sara' solo un rinforzo, per ora lo uso solo per spingere la ruota che ho costruito a vuoto, senza alternatore. "[email protected] [EVGRAY]" <[email protected]> ha scritto: > Si > Guarda che ti perdi con Rv e i volani e difficile mettere > tutto in sincronismo ,perche RV ad ogni minimo cambio > di sforzo deve cambiare il condensatore ,forse e meglio > seguire lo schema di Hector fare il battery charger con il > lupping (ricircolo delle correnty con reutilizzo mediante > diodi transformatore etcc.) ,fai i volani con un motore > normale , magari funziona subito . non farti tante > aspettative qua si perde un sacco di tempo ma energia poca > .
[39/70] Re: [EVGRAY] help!
2019-07-03T05:07:06-07:00
·
triadutrad <[email protected]>
<[email protected]>
Message-ID:
<[email protected]>
Ad un kilowatt non vedo il 1.8 cavalli vapore come un debole RV atribute (H) ---In [email protected], <hvforvolt@...> wrote : Si Guarda che ti perdi con Rv e i volani e difficile mettere tutto in sincronismo ,perche RV ad ogni minimo cambio di sforzo deve cambiare il condensatore ,forse e meglio seguire lo schema di Hector fare il battery charger con il lupping (ricircolo delle correnty con reutilizzo mediante diodi transformatore etcc.) ,fai i volani con un motore normale , magari funziona subito . non farti tante aspettative qua si perde un sacco di tempo ma energia poca .
[40/70] Re: [EVGRAY] help!
2019-07-03T05:17:19-07:00
·
triadutrad <[email protected]>
<[email protected]>
Message-ID:
<[email protected]>
L'intento o il design del RV è quello di fornire allo sperimentatore uno strumento per comprendere gli aspetti della gestione dell'energia necessari per impegnarsi nella ricerca ZPE e overunity, altri strumenti come banger bobina sono anche intesi come strumenti di laboratorio. (Sono richiesti ricerca e sperimentazione) (H) ---In [email protected], <info@...> wrote : mi fa piacere che ci sia qualche italiano sul sito. posso chiederti seoltre agli RV hai provato a fare qualche altra cosa ? certo è deludente quello che dici....mi togli le speranze. Di dove sei ? "hvforvolt@... mailto:hvforvolt@... [EVGRAY]" <[email protected] mailto:[email protected]> ha scritto: > Si > Guarda che ti perdi con Rv e i volani e difficile mettere > tutto in sincronismo ,perche RV ad ogni minimo cambio > di sforzo deve cambiare il condensatore ,forse e meglio > seguire lo schema di Hector fare il battery charger con il > lupping (ricircolo delle correnty con reutilizzo mediante > diodi transformatore etcc.) ,fai i volani con un motore > normale , magari funziona subito . non farti tante > aspettative qua si perde un sacco di tempo ma energia poca > .